There are a couple of pervasive myths about Salem, Massachusetts: that it’s the birthplace of witchcraft, and that everyone who lives there celebrates Halloween 365 days a year. While a certain portion of the population does the latter, most don’t. And Salem is about far more than those misguided witch trials.

While working as a travel writer, I enjoy digging past the surface to uncover what makes a destination tick, and the lesser-known places and activities that are worth your time. For this travel feature on the Greylock Glass, I get to the heart of this quirky, contemporary coastal city—and what really led to those infamous witch trials.